Making Throwing Weights

  Any suggestions as to how to make metal weights?  On a teacher's salary I classify myself as cheap and try and make my own implements. The local tire store was kind enough to give me 100 lbs. of used tire balance weights.  Should I make a metal form in the shape of a square/rectangle and melt down the metal or would it be easier to dig a hole in the ground?  (The Michigan ground is now frozen, this is another factor to consider) Any suggestions would be a help.   Thanks,

                -Dave

For practice implements, melting the lead into a can works pretty well.  You can leave the can attached for ruggedness.  In fact, I'd only remove the can if I was confident that the lead had been melted through:  lead tends to pile up on itself as you pour it, which tends to leave voids and weak spots.  It has to be thoroughly liquefied to avoid this.

I much prefer using 1/2-inch strength-rated forged eye bolts, rather than ones formed from wire.  You can either install the bolt first and pour the lead around it, or drill through it later on for the bolt.  Either way, use a big ol' washer underneath to ensure a good connection to the blob.

One lb of lead is 1.35 fluid ounces, so making a 28 lber takes about 38 fluid ounces (bigger than a quart), and a 56 lber takes about 76 fluid ounces (bigger than a half-gallon).  A 28 will fill a half-gallon can about  60% full, and a 56 will fill the same fraction of a gallon can.  If you're not confident that the lead was melted through, and decide to leave the can attached, you can cut down the can after pouring to get rid of the extra steel above the lead.

-Wayne

To cut the handle I used a hacksaw. Forarms hurt after, but it was a good
workout anyway. You will need to by a metal drill bit from a hardware
store. They are not too expensive. Drilling was also hard because it has
tough to keep the weight in place while I drilled. I have had no trouble
with breaking yet. I was worried about it when I started, but no signs of
wear yet. Good luck and get throwing!!

TROB

Using hex DB heads sounds pretty easy.  For drilling, I'd recommend finding someone who has a drill press.


I've got a couple hundred pounds of standard plates that I don't use, so I'm planning on using them. 

Jeremy,
Another good tip. Sorry to bow out of the Beaver Island thing.
How is the prep work for it going? I am waiting for the Alma
application to be posted. I have been reading the weights
some of the guys have been posting (including you) and think I
am no where near those numbers and I need to practice my
throwing even harder. Either that or start a 175 and below
class. Take care of the family and stay healthy.
   -Dave

Dave,

I am planning on buying some weights from the Old Celt, it will be a little late, but if you come to Fort Wayne, I will give you my home made set.  I made mine by using a some 3/4 metal conduit, a floor flange and a cap, i just slid on 5 and 10 pound plates, drilled a whole in the cap, put an eye bole through the hole, then you just need a handle and some chain.  Thinking back, the hex dumbbell idea is much better, but like I said, if you want my old set you are welcome to it. 

Damon

I'm pretty sure, I think Craig Morehead put it together last year and I am planning on going this year.  If you don't have his contact info e-mail me and I'll give it to you.  damonbarth@yahoo.com

Jody is working out with Craig now, so he'll probably hit 290 before 190, he'll be nice and round and barrel chested in no time.

Yeah, Craig usually gets the same score in the sheaf and caber, 12.

PFC95, I would truly recomend just cutting a dumbell in half.  It is the cheapest and easiest and they look nice after a fresh coat of paint and they have a nice shape and size.  I tried the same thing of finding a welder / fabricator and after all was said and done I just used the DB's.  Cut off the handle, tap a threaded hole, go to Fastenall? or industrial supply store, buy some good strong eyebolts and screw them in.  Also pick up some strong shackles or clevices while you're there.  Have your fab./weld. guy make two sets of "D" handles and two sets of "O" handle. ( you need two each, cause when u cut that DB you get 2 throwing weights). Make sure when he makes the handle he puts them through the chain before welding.  Use 5/8 round bar if possible.  I cut a 50lb'er in half and had 4 links on the chain for proper length.  I would suggest using a 55 instead, mine is about 1 to 1/2 lbs lite.  When all is said and done the weight WITH chain, clevis and handle should weigh 28lbs and be no more than 18 in. long.  Same for the 42, and the 56.  Hope this helps.  I'll try to take a picture of mine and send it or post it or something if I can figure it out?? 

Damon Barth, you seem to be the person to talk to abut such things, can ya help some guys out??

 

 

I haven't tried it yet, but I'm thinking that if I can find the right size of cheap  saucepan at (enter superstore here), I could just melt the lead right in the pan, let it cool, and then hopefully the teflon coating will allow the lead to just slide out. That way I think I can avoid the whole idea of trying to melt and pour 50+ pounds of lead in one shot. Anyone tried this?

One Norse,
I melted 42 pounds of lead outside over my fire pit. It took a
while. The fume issue was not a problem. The problem was,
even after wearing 2 thick gloves I could still feel the heat from
the pan as I transfered the melted lead to a large coffee can. I
spilled about 1.5 pounds of the stuff and I now have a 42 pound
weight that ways 40.5 pounds. I think shawnf offers a better
solution. Good Luck.
-Dave

I built some practice weights myself last year. Since I wanted to have some flexibility in how much weight was on them (light days and heavy days as well as some for kids and women), I went a slightly different route. Here's what I did:

- get a collection of cheap weight plates (yard sale!)
- buy a nice long eye bolt, a some locking nuts and a bunch of washers
- stack the weights (with washers and nuts between them) on the eye bolt

If you use a quick release link to attach the handle to the eyebolt, you only need one handle (or two if you want to practice with round and d-rings).  The weights are cheap enough that you can easily put together 4 or 5 pre-assembled sizes and they are easy enough to work with that you can change them out however you want.

fpsm

Was out in the garage making weights tonight.  Got as far as making my hammer, and about half way done with my weight stack.

Hammer was made out of four 5lb standard plates that I got for free from someone, and 3/4" diameter gray pvc pipe.  I cut the overall lengtht to 50", but the total length from handle to bottom plate is about 48.5" due to there being a collar on the end.

The collar on the top of the plates is held in place with athletic tape.  I figured I'd rather have that part easily removable and cut down on any weakness in the handle.  This way, I can add plates or take away as necessary for working heavy or light hammers.

That's pretty much what mine look like.  They seem to work well.