Database |
Homemade Caber |
Post Reply |
Author | |
JB Cochran
Newbie Joined: 11/28/11 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 46 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 12/19/11 at 10:48am |
I have a question about cabers. Is there a certain kind of wood usually used for making cabers? I wanted a practice caber so I took down this smallish red oak growing next to my house. I cut out a straight 12' section and removed the bark. I'm curious about the kinds of wood used because at only 12' long this thing is like trying to hoist an elephant. Not having any sort of scale to properly weigh it I've only been able to estimate; it feels like it's somewhere between Friggin Heavy and "I might crap my pants if I try to toss this thing." Don't know if it's just because red oak is such a hard, dense wood or if I'm just in that bad of condition.
|
|
Virtute et labore.
|
|
MAT$O
Postaholic World Champ - '12 Joined: 7/19/10 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1242 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
http://thedriftalifta.blogspot.com/2011/10/article-diy-caber.html
This may help. I would recommend building one out of lumber and adjust eh height accordingly. You could also just use 2 x 2x4 about 16' . I think that weight and size would be good for a novice. IT will also be much easier to replace when it breaks vs the tree. Cabers vary out of different types of wood. Hard woods work the best.
|
|
USPlabs
Conquest Nutrition SPORT KILT Clevenger Sheaves Training LAB ebook "Strength Training for The Highland Games |
|
Alaska
Senior Member Joined: 6/16/08 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 333 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
First, if you just felled the tree, it has quite a bit of water weight to lose. Let it bake in the sun(off the ground is best) for a loooong while. After that, you'll begin shaving it down to a taper.
|
|
Tim P
Senior Member Joined: 1/17/11 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 408 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It'll be spring before that oak is dried out. Ditto for a hickory. Wouldnt bother with a pine, at least none in our area, too resinous. You want tacky on your hands, not your neck.
Poplar, cedar or if youre close enough to the lowcountry a cypress. Either way, you need to dry them out a long while before being usable...so yeah, what Matso said. |
|
"What's the matter boy? you got ants in your pants?
No Ma'am...hot steel balls!" Jerry Clower |
|
Tim P
Senior Member Joined: 1/17/11 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 408 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
"What's the matter boy? you got ants in your pants?
No Ma'am...hot steel balls!" Jerry Clower |
|
JWC III
Postaholic Joined: 8/30/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1277 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I made several using three 2X6's. I made a set, 14', 15', up to 20'. I ran mine thru my table saw at 45 degree angles creating an octagon shape then took those corners off with a planer. I took the planer and created a rounded bottom and then used the palm sander to make it smoother (and less splinters). Glued and screwed these things are very, very sturdy and great for practice. Now, that being said, if you don't have those tools, just put three boards together and find a way to round out the bottom, paint it if you are gonna leave it outside and you are good to go!
|
|
Thom Van Vleck
|
|
dl_buffy
Postaholic Joined: 3/14/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1507 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You ran a WHOLE caber through a table saw?!?! |
|
igrassie
Groupie Joined: 3/30/10 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 110 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
For starters if you have access to a wood lot find a tree that looks like caber. Thin bottom nice mid section and a fat top, straight is a big plus. 14 to 16 is a good starter length. If you can pick and turn this new stick more than once in a while you have a winner. If not try shortening it until you can turn it. Remember pick control move pull. They are all distinct parts of the drill.. Good luck Ian.
|
|
Yell loudly and carry a big stick...
|
|
DaleGehman
Senior Member Joined: 4/20/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 235 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
What's best for a caber seems to be a regional thing, and highly dependant on what's available in the woods. As has been pointed out, while hardwoods are typically durable, they're exceedingly heavy, slow to dry, and will rot easily if left out in the weather. Also, it's not easy to find a straight one as they tend to fork lower to the ground. If you cut down a fresh hardwood (oak, maple, ash) you'll have to wait a long time (2 years) to trim and shape it because the weight will change substantially. Something that you can handle, or even stand up wet, will be too light dry. Pines can be messy, but dry a bit faster, and can be straighter, although there will ususally be lots of limbs to deal with. If dried from fresh, they can be pretty durable. If collected dead, not so much.
We have used primarily cedar around here, for a few reasons. Fresh, it's very durable, and not as heavy as hardwood. Dried, it's very light, and therefore a properly sized caber can be impressivly large (19'-20' and 100 ish pounds) and still turnable. They're also won't rot, are pretty straight, stiff, easy to shape, won't splinter, and can pretty easily be found already blown-down in the woods, so we're not always killing growing trees. They will break, certainly, but they don't have to. I have practice ones I've used for 8+ years, and they're fine. Eventually, I'll figure out how to turn "Rosie."
We have a few iron-wood cabers as well. They're very tough, very heavy, and don't look nearly as impressive to fans, but they make great practice cabers, or qualification cabers for newer throwers. Hickory would be similar.
So, like a lot of things in life, what's best depends a lot on what's available to you. And cheap. Good luck in your throwing.
|
|
Partner in JDJ Caber Co. "Proudly serving the Scottish Heavy Athlete with fine cabers for sale. No orders too large or too small."
|
|
Old Dude
Senior Member Joined: 9/07/04 Location: Cali Status: Offline Points: 263 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
West Coast cabers are usually made from doug fir. They're plentiful in the Sierras and foothills, work easily, and last a good long time. They are a staple for the California Caber Company.
Old redwood flag poles if they can be found make wonderful sticks. Frank's got one that's at least 100 years old, 18" long and maybe 90 lbs. "Big Red". Not to be confused with "Rojo". Kit |
|
Over Fork Over
|
|
70theelder
Senior Member Joined: 7/15/09 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 253 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Red cedar is probably the best i have used for all the aforementioned reasons. Poplar works very well as it is light when dried and they grow straight and tall. Oak and other hardwoods are very dense and thus very heavy even when dried. Not as impressive a stick and just does not feel as good when you pull on it. Some of the best cabers I have had the honor to turn were Kay Cummings cypress sticks. The length weight and balance are all there.
|
|
Three sets of twenty ought to make you feel strong.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |