CABER TRAINING PROGRESSION

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   Hello!  I'm making a few cabers over the next couple weeks so they will be ready by January, so I can start training for the Panama City Highland Games in March.  I cut down a maple over the weekend and took the bark off today.  Per a calculator online its approx 160 lbs @ 75% moisture content(5.5" on one end, 7.5" on the other, 16 ft long).  I figure after 6-7 months it'll be much lighter.  I'll be cutting down a pine and oak as well.  The pine shouldn't be sappy by the time I start training with it and that will be the lightest(and longest) caber.  The oak will be the heaviest and shortest.  I want to make a couple more as well of various heights/weights.  I am used to typical linear progression in the weight room but not sure how to progress with the cabers.  I want to have enough to give me light days, warm up "sets" etc so I'm not flipping a heavy beastly oak every time I work on it.  I've got virtually unlimited supply of oaks, maples, and pines, and possibly a couple cyprus trees, so any input on how to go about this would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

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bwhite829 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 7/16/14 Status: Offline Points: 11	Post Options Post Reply Quote bwhite829 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: CABER TRAINING PROGRESSION Posted: 5/20/15 at 6:51pm
	Hello! I'm making a few cabers over the next couple weeks so they will be ready by January, so I can start training for the Panama City Highland Games in March. I cut down a maple over the weekend and took the bark off today. Per a calculator online its approx 160 lbs @ 75% moisture content(5.5" on one end, 7.5" on the other, 16 ft long). I figure after 6-7 months it'll be much lighter. I'll be cutting down a pine and oak as well. The pine shouldn't be sappy by the time I start training with it and that will be the lightest(and longest) caber. The oak will be the heaviest and shortest. I want to make a couple more as well of various heights/weights. I am used to typical linear progression in the weight room but not sure how to progress with the cabers. I want to have enough to give me light days, warm up "sets" etc so I'm not flipping a heavy beastly oak every time I work on it. I've got virtually unlimited supply of oaks, maples, and pines, and possibly a couple cyprus trees, so any input on how to go about this would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Sean Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Postaholic 9th Best in the World - 2010 Joined: 12/05/06 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 3759	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sean Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 5/21/15 at 10:57am
	Its actually not too difficult to just keep playing with different styles of cabers. The only thing I keep in mind is that longer sticks turn differently than shorter ones. Same with tapered vs non-tapered. Most areas have specific "styles" of sticks they use. Ask someone in the know for information on what those local games keep on hand. Train with that. The only other thing I know about cabers is that in general, caber weights are always overestimated or overstated. A 20', legally weighed 120# stick is a freakin monster. A 19', 90# stick will stump many people who don't REALLY have their head on straight for cabers (taper dependant of course). There are a lot of legitimate caber killers in the games but I see some of the numbers shouted around and I DO do the single eyebrow raise. So don't take what you see around guys games reports as gospel unless you saw a pic of the caber on a scale.

Hapy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Postaholic Joined: 8/29/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1977	Post Options Post Reply Quote Hapy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 5/21/15 at 3:02pm
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