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Hammer Cage Help!

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ATost View Drop Down
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    Posted: 2/03/17 at 10:08am
Would anyone have a list of materials needed to build a hammer cage using chain link. The type that can be folded up and moved? I have seen them at games and need to make on for the Maine games. How high should it be how long how deep Ext. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Alison
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/03/17 at 12:21pm
One of the Wayne Ads(Wayne Hill or Wayne Pogany)might be able to answer as they had portable hammer cage that was used in New england
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pogany Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/03/17 at 6:14pm
Yeah, that was me .... pretty basic but on a couple occasions they more than earned their keep.....  give me a couple days and I'll sketch something up .... they were 6' x 4' made of 1/2" EMT (galvanized electrical tubing) and a roll of cheap chain link fence from Lowes .... the PIA was cutting the fabric, found that a grinder was the way to go ..... I'll PM the details ......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ATost Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/03/17 at 8:11pm
Thank you!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wayne Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/04/17 at 10:26am
At Loon, we use seven or eight 6' x 12' construction fence panels. These are incredibly common, and can be purchased, rented, or borrowed for a games. They're also pretty easy to horse around: two people can carry one fairly easily. Originally, ours were lent to us by a builder, but after the event they told us to keep them. We set them up on stands and use nylon straps to connect them together. 

Here's a link that shows what the parts look like:


The main photo shows panels standing on temporary stands (also shown separately in the photo to the right). We use short (2-3' long) nylon straps to connect the panels together near the top (they're held together by the stands at the bottom).

Here's a source for straps:


Two-foot straps are fine. You need one between each pair of adjacent panels, so typically that works out to a few less than the number of panels.

The panels can be stacked by slipping smaller pipes sticking out of one panel into the pipes of another. For the danger zone, we use stacked panels to make 12' x 12' panels.

There's basically no way a hammer ball will get through the fencing. The question is whether something would bend enough to allow the ball to squeeze through: if one managed to get through, it would have no energy left and would fall straight down. Thus, people standing right by the fence have to understand that the risk is low but not zero. They should stay away from the fence when someone is throwing, and must be ready to move.

Immediately in front of the trig, you can use a 6' height, because the ball is at the low point in its orbit there, and it would be tough for the athlete to lift the hammer up over the fence there. You need the greater height in any direction where the ball is (or could be) at or above shoulder level (and be conservative about that). Check on whether any of the athletes are lefties, and plan accordingly. The final consideration is the sight lines from any release point (normal or not) toward the crowd. At Loon, we take advantage of the mountain, so we don't need to protect the right side of the field to any great extent. It's the left side that worries us. You'll need to make that assessment for yourself. 

The key to safety is to be skeptical that things will go the way you want. What could happen, and what if you're wrong about that?
"We may be small, but we're slow." - MIT Rugby
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