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Fork Specs

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URL: http://www.nasgaweb.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16503
Printed Date: 3/26/26 at 8:20pm
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Topic: Fork Specs
Posted By: epif18
Subject: Fork Specs
Date Posted: 12/09/13 at 12:47pm
Hey guys

I'm a blacksmith and a local kid asked me if I could make him a tossing fork.  Are there any specs out there?  How long? How wide?  How heavy or light? 3 tines was recommended.  Springy tines or stiff? Wikipedia doesn't even have info on the forks.  Maybe just go to Lowes? I'm not looking to get into the biz, just want to help the kid out.

Thanks
Mark


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Mark
3R Forge



Replies:
Posted By: C. Smith
Date Posted: 12/09/13 at 12:52pm
Moved to the general forum to get some responses.  


Posted By: rob meulenberg
Date Posted: 12/09/13 at 2:43pm
Most people buy their forks from a hardware store and grind down the tines to their liking or restore antique forks.  Duncan McCallum, however, forges his own forks so I would recommend talking to him about specifics.  I have one of his forks and like it.  Send him a PM.

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www.sportkilt.com


Posted By: Calamari
Date Posted: 12/09/13 at 4:29pm
Just my opinion, the Springier the steel the better.  I prefer antique tines over modern tines because of this.  If you can make a springier 3 tine head I would love to buy one from you. 
 
Scott Burnside
 


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Representing the new World orange. Sponsored by Mississippi Security Police, WGUD Channel 19


Posted By: Duncan McCallum
Date Posted: 12/09/13 at 5:20pm
I know a guy...

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The man in the arena.


Posted By: ATost
Date Posted: 12/09/13 at 5:24pm
and that guy makes great forks!

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"Stand in your own space and know you are there."


Posted By: phatmiked
Date Posted: 12/10/13 at 10:38am
I will go out on a limb here and say that most people "rehabilitate" forks rather than making them . . .

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Posted By: Moosie
Date Posted: 12/10/13 at 3:41pm
Some rehabilitated forks just wind up back in prison, while others go on to be productive members of the highland games.

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Jim Dougherty

Ned Pepper: I call that bold talk for a one-eyed fat man.

Rooster Cogburn: Fill your hands, you son of a bitch.


Posted By: dl_buffy
Date Posted: 12/12/13 at 2:41pm
Originally posted by epif18 epif18 wrote:

Hey guys

I'm a blacksmith and a local kid asked me if I could make him a tossing fork.  Are there any specs out there?  How long? How wide?  How heavy or light? 3 tines was recommended.  Springy tines or stiff? Wikipedia doesn't even have info on the forks.  Maybe just go to Lowes? I'm not looking to get into the biz, just want to help the kid out.

Thanks
Mark
 
Hey Mark
Is this local kid new to sport?  Then all he needs is a fork that has polished tines.  Technique will not be anywhere near needing the difference between springy and stiff.  That said I am on my 7th year throwing and I still love my store bought fork. I pull way too hard for springy forks and send the sheaf off into the crowd.  I can tell you that my fork and it's sister from another thrower can finish first and second in competitions when HE shows up. (Hell, he has used my own fork to beat me!)
My fork was a three tine razorback, took the middle tine out (because I don't live on East coast or Scottland) then I polished all the black off the tines.  Lastly you need to add a bit more point on the end because it has to get through the bag without hanging up.  If too blunt it will snag.  If too sharp it will split cords and snag.  Smile
 
(EDIT! DOH!) - Oh yeah, you need to bring the tines in so they point a lot more straight forward instead of splayed any.  I am not a blacksmith so I did this with a bench clamp and a lot of "OMG HOPE IT DOESN'T SPRING OUT AND TAKE OUT MY EYE!!"  There are people, maybe Duncs, that will heat them to bend and then take the time to retemper.  I don't have tha skill.


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I have very few social interaction skills, so I just throw stuff instead.


Posted By: epif18
Date Posted: 12/12/13 at 7:50pm
Thanks dl.  Good stuff. Who knows, I may experiment with some chrome moly or stainless.

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Mark
3R Forge


Posted By: Sammy68123
Date Posted: 12/12/13 at 11:21pm
Hi Mark,

What you are looking for is a "hay fork". I've found them in stock for sale at many Orscheln Farm and Home stores here NE, KS, MO, etc (Union Tools is the brand--$22.99).

As DL said, I also prefer the outer tines to be parallel to each other rather than diverging as they usually are. I had a local metal working place cold set the tines for me--that is, bend them without heating them. On my first fork (that I kept as a 3-tine), I paid someone to do so; on my second that I'm making into a 2-tine, we were friends with a auto body shop that did it (and removed the middle tine afterward) for free. That spring steel is tough to bend yourself, so that's why I specifically got a more experienced person to bring the tines into parallel without heating them up.

I hope this helps!

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Teresa Merrick
Bellevue, NE


Posted By: Duncan McCallum
Date Posted: 12/14/13 at 4:02pm
Mark,
 
You got my PM.  Do that.  You will be happier when all is said and done.


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The man in the arena.


Posted By: dl_buffy
Date Posted: 12/16/13 at 10:33am
Originally posted by Duncan McCallum Duncan McCallum wrote:

Mark,
You got my PM.  Do that.  You will be happier when all is said and done.


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I have very few social interaction skills, so I just throw stuff instead.


Posted By: Soul Eater
Date Posted: 12/30/13 at 2:59am
The tines are 11.5 inches long 6 - 6.5 wide at tines. The tang is about 4.5 long that makes the fork about 16 inches long from tip to tip. I have talked to several blacksmiths about making new tines and I would be looking at $150 - $350. I would use spring steel. I think it would be hard to improve on the design of the 3 tine. the newer tines are not the same or as good as an older pair.  I think somewhere about a pound to a pound and a half of steel would be about right I would go heavier than lighter. get an Antique pair and study them especially the angles and the shape of the tines because they are more of an egg shape than they are round. 




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