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$160 30ft sheaf towers

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jimdeg73 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 2/11/12 at 1:14pm
I just made a set of sheaf towers for practice and a possible game here in sitka. In all the supplies cost about $150 dollars. They only reach 30ft but that is plenty for practice and the small game I am trying to start. I posted picks and a parts list with about rounded cost. This is Alaska so in the lowere 48 you can probably get a lot of this stuff cheaper.

Parts List
2 20ft 2"x6" boards  $21
2 heavy duty 12ft extendable poles    $40
4 1in lag bolt eyelets  $6
6  1/2in eyelets  $6 
6 1in metal conduit  securing bands  $6
1 10ft length of 1" PVC pipe  $5
3 100ft 100lb lengths of rope  $40
1 100ft 50lb  length of rope  $15
2 pulleys  $4
8 2ft Rebar stakes   $15
 Total  $158

How to build



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/11/12 at 1:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/11/12 at 1:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/11/12 at 1:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/11/12 at 1:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/11/12 at 1:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/11/12 at 1:54pm
Directions
Bottom of 20ft board
Take two 1in eyelets and screw them into the base of the board with top eyelet about 8in from bottom of board and bottom eyelet 4in below the top. This will be placed over the anchor stake at the base of the upright.

Top of board. 
Screw 3 1/2in eyelets into the top of each board. These will be the anchors for the Guide lines. Tie 50ft lengths of rope to each eyelet. 
On opposite side of the top of board use 3 metal conduit securing bands to attach telescoping pole extensions with 1 & 1/2ft overlap of the board. In the pictures above the poles are pointing the opposite direction they would be when the uprights are put up. Attach the pulleys to the top of the poles and attach the cross bar with two lengths of 50ft rope.
I'll post a pic of the whole thing up when I get a chance.
  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/12/12 at 12:26pm


Here is one of the uprights. it's pretty solid.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alan H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/13/12 at 11:00am
I made a pair of these from two pieces of ten foot, 2-inch galvanized electrical conduit, joined with a standard conduit joiner, plus a 10-foot piece of 1-inch conduit that slid into the top of the upper piece of 2-inch.

couple of hose clamps, D-rings, guy ropes, eye bolts and cheap pulleys, and I had me a pair of 28-foot Sheaf standards for about $65.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dl_buffy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/14/12 at 5:53am
with the three guy cables in the pic, how do you move the bar?  wouldn't it hang up going past the point where the eyebolts are?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Alan H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/14/12 at 6:32am
Originally posted by dl_buffy dl_buffy wrote:

with the three guy cables in the pic, how do you move the bar?  wouldn't it hang up going past the point where the eyebolts are?


On my setup I only use 2 guy ropes. Instead of a third guy rope, I have a rope/wire at about 13 1/2 feet that connects the two uprights to each other. So, if you were looking at it from above, the ropes would make a "Y"  shape.

The "base" of the "Y" is the rope/wire that connects one upright to the other.  The two branches of the "Y" are the guy ropes.

Upside to this is that there are no guy ropes anywhere near the front of the throwing area...and the guy ropes are short, about 20 feet. Downside is that opening height has to be above the rope/wire that connects the two uprights to each other... that means 14 feet on my setup.   14 feet can be a problem for smallish, beginning sheaf throwers.  Then again, if you're at all tight on time, starting out at 14+ feet will thin the field of the complete newbs in one round and you'll finish the event more quickly.

For new folks, I just move them over to my  "extra" WOB standards, which are also electrical conduit, but only go up to 15 feet.  Since they're short, I don't use guy ropes, I just drive two big steel fence stakes into the ground where each pole goes,  and duct tape them to the  uprights.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimdeg73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/23/12 at 4:35pm
Originally posted by Alan H Alan H wrote:

I made a pair of these from two pieces of ten foot, 2-inch galvanized electrical conduit, joined with a standard conduit joiner, plus a 10-foot piece of 1-inch conduit that slid into the top of the upper piece of 2-inch.

couple of hose clamps, D-rings, guy ropes, eye bolts and cheap pulleys, and I had me a pair of 28-foot Sheaf standards for about $65.



That was my first thought on making a pair. My plan was to start with 2in conduit in ten foot sections and move down the diameter as i went higher. I priced it all out and on the Island I live here in alaska it would have cost me about $300+ to get it done. So I went with this direction.  
As for the guy ropes no they won't get caught as long as your standards are set slightly wider than the horizontal bar.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dl_buffy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/24/12 at 1:42am
Originally posted by jimdeg73 jimdeg73 wrote:

 As for the guy ropes no they won't get caught as long as your standards are set slightly wider than the horizontal bar.
 
Ok, that is what I wondered.  Here in the midwest we would have so much trouble with wind that you would never get the cross bar to sit still enough for a throw.  Heck when the wind changes direction and blows from back of the standards we can see the cross bar out about 2-3 foot if there aren't rings holding it to the uprights.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Styler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2/24/12 at 3:50am
But can you break it down to fit into a "Flat Rate" box?
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