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Want to buy a fork

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DaneGarreau View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12/08/14 at 10:26am
Does anyone have a fork for sale?
I want to buy one for for a Christmas present and would need it in time for Christmas.
 
 
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Sammy68123 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammy68123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/08/14 at 8:12pm
Where do you live?

Here in NE (along with IA, MO, and KS), Orscheln Farm and Home carries 3-tine hay forks from Union tools that are what many of us start modifying (unless you happen on an estate sale or something similar where they have a fork).

Orscheln usually has them in stock hanging with the other garden/yard tools and the price is about $25. You might also be able to order one through your local Ace hardware, but it may cost more.
Teresa Merrick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duncan McCallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/14 at 12:15am
Dane,
 
Reach out to Tom Lawrence.  Teresa is right, you could get a Union fork, or a Razorback, but those are awful.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duncan McCallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/14 at 7:53am
I promise that isn't what you want.
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DaneGarreau View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaneGarreau Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/14 at 8:11am
Do you have an online link to a good one? I live in the Atlanta area, so online is probably my best bet.
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brandell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brandell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/14 at 8:55am
If you want a good fork there are two cats to hit up. Johnathan Irvin or Duncan. Its that simple.
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Sammy68123 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammy68123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/14 at 3:52pm
Originally posted by Duncan McCallum Duncan McCallum wrote:

Dane,
 

Reach out to Tom Lawrence.  Teresa is right, you could get a Union fork, or a Razorback, but those are awful.

 

 


Why would a modified Union fork be awful? Emily Burchett, one of the sheaf goddesses of the Heartland, has used mine (modified to 2-tine) over the past season and even left me some mojo on it <g>!

Are there some other mods I should make?

Teresa Merrick
Bellevue, NE
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlDargie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/14 at 5:21pm
There are probably others, but I know Kel Mulrey out on the west coast has done up some nice custom forks.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomLawrence Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/14 at 9:37pm
Dane -- I just sent you a PM.  Give me a call and we can discuss.

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duncan McCallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 12:10am
Originally posted by Sammy68123 Sammy68123 wrote:

Originally posted by Duncan McCallum Duncan McCallum wrote:

Dane,
 

Reach out to Tom Lawrence.  Teresa is right, you could get a Union fork, or a Razorback, but those are awful.

 

 


Why would a modified Union fork be awful? Emily Burchett, one of the sheaf goddesses of the Heartland, has used mine (modified to 2-tine) over the past season and even left me some mojo on it <g>!

Are there some other mods I should make?

Probably not the best comparison...Emily could go 20+ with an olive fork.  I suppose if you get a broken down and/or loose bag (i.e. not a Clevenger) then a fork with the wider tines might not be so bad.  Besides, those forks are significantly heavier, and I don't know about you Dane, but I want events to be easier, not harder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rob meulenberg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 6:03am
Antique forks are the way to go.  You can find them at local antique stores or from you grandfather's barn (like Bill Waddell).  You can also buy just the fork on ebay (I used to stalk ebay until I now have like 5 different forks, lol) and put some TLC into it and add a handle and boom.  Irvin takes antique forks and makes them pretty. Duncan hand forges his own forks in the style of the thin, springy antique design. 

Modern forks are just too thick.  I have an unmodified one sitting in my garage and have never used it.  You definitely have to put a lot of effort into making those usable.  I'd give you my modern one Dane (especially since I remember you from way back in the day taking pictures of me at strongman comps) but shipping would probably cost a decent amount.
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Duncan McCallum View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duncan McCallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 7:14am

Dane, listen to Rob.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillyMac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 9:58am
Most of the antique ones I'm finding on eBay are cast iron. I'm assuming those are not the kind to buy. Steel only right; anything else to look for?

I've got a Truper 3 tine right now that I've sanded and smoothed out as much as possible, but I definitely saw the tines were super thick compared to all the nice custom forks I saw at Salado. I cannot get the flare out of those tines for the life of me either, so I'm definitely thinking of getting the 4 tine and cutting 2 off.

Going to be borrowing one in Florida anyway, but I'll need one in Feb; can't get 8oz of fluid or toenail clippers on a plane, I'm sure DHS would tackle me for a fork....maybe get a fancy case and check it like a set of golf clubs? Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C. Smith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 10:02am
Originally posted by Sammy68123 Sammy68123 wrote:

Are there some other mods I should make?


Yea, weld that 3rd tine back on. 

Originally posted by BillyMac BillyMac wrote:

so I'm definitely thinking of getting the 4 tine and cutting 2 off. 


Don't do that. 

And if you're going to be throwing in the South (you mentioned Florida), 2 tine forks are outlawed.

Originally posted by BillyMac BillyMac wrote:

Going to be borrowing one in Florida anyway, but I'll need one in Feb; can't get 8oz of fluid or toenail clippers on a plane, I'm sure DHS would tackle me for a fork....maybe get a fancy case and check it like a set of golf clubs? Wink


HG athletes fly with forks and hammer blades all the time. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheJeff696 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 10:45am
Originally posted by C. Smith C. Smith wrote:

 

HG athletes fly with forks and hammer blades all the time. 

Truth. No one cares, as odd as that sounds. Just don't leave your blades in your carry on. 
Jeff Kaste



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TomLawrence Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 1:10pm
Originally posted by BillyMac BillyMac wrote:

Most of the antique ones I'm finding on eBay are cast iron. I'm assuming those are not the kind to buy. Steel only right; anything else to look for?


I learned my fork lore from Duncan and from personal experience.  Antique forks ( I guess unless otherwise stated ) were generally cold rolled steel.  Modern forks are generally hot rolled steel.  I say 'generally' in both cases, though I have yet to find an exception.  Cold rolled steel is a bit harder, a bit stronger, and holds a surface finish better than hot rolled steel.  What that means in practical terms for us throwers is that antique fork heads tend to be a bit springier and hold a polish better than modern fork heads.  It's entirely subjective, but I think antique fork heads feel better.

Still, I think any reasonably set-up fork will work well if it fits with you.  I work with all antique fork heads and I make really nice forks, but they don't work well for all throwers.  I send every one I make with a disclaimer that if it doesn't work for you, please go find who belongs to it and put it in their hand. 

If you are cruising Ebay for an antique fork, there are a few cues you can look for if they have close-up pictures:
  • The tang on antique forks usually has a convex side and a flat side.  The flat side will often had a slightly raised edge.  I have also seen four-sided tangs that taper, kind of like the base of a bit for an old brace&bit drill.
  • The tines on antique forks seem to generally be longer than modern forks.  Almost everyone I have worked also has a definite spine down at least one side (usually two, e.g. top and bottom) of the length of each tine.  I have seem some where this is so pronounced that the cross section of the tines would be diamond shaped.
  • They will be rusty.  Look closely at the tips before you buy.  If the last few inches look irregular and highly pitted, don't buy it.  It will break.  If the tips look sharp or chisel pointed, you are in great shape.

I hope this helps.  If any of the other readers sees where I misrepresented something, please correct it.  I am a craftsman not a sheaf champion, so have no ego tied up in this.

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sammy68123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 1:48pm
Originally posted by BillyMac BillyMac wrote:

I cannot get the flare out of those tines for the life of me either,


I have had third parties cold-set the outer tines on my Union forks to be parallel. In the most recent one I made into 2-tine, I asked the person to align the outer tines to parallel before cutting off the middle tine. My 3-tine (usually for practice) has the outer tines parallel to the middle one.
Teresa Merrick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sammy68123 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/14 at 1:55pm
Originally posted by Duncan McCallum Duncan McCallum wrote:


Probably not the best comparison...Emily could go 20+ with an olive fork.  I suppose if you get a broken down and/or loose bag (i.e. not a Clevenger) then a fork with the wider tines might not be so bad.  Besides, those forks are significantly heavier, and I don't know about you Dane, but I want events to be easier, not harder.


I had Jason Clevenger help me get my Union the 2-tine through the bag I got from him. We had to beat and stomp the bag a bit. He also told my hubby about how to do a little more work to the tines to sharpen and taper them near the ends.
Teresa Merrick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duncan McCallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/11/14 at 12:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaneGarreau Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/18/14 at 7:00am
I just recieved my fork from Tom Lawrence and it looks absolutely awesome! Highly reccomended.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duncan McCallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/18/14 at 7:09am
Good man.  Get some tosses and give us the run down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomLawrence Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/18/14 at 12:56pm
That answer is none... none more black.

Glad you like it Dane.

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Soul Eater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/19/14 at 4:14pm
Duncan how long does it take you to blacksmith a set of tines?

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