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Sheaf/WOB Standards |
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C. Smith
Admin Group Retired Joined: 8/30/04 Location: Antarctica Status: Offline Points: 6661443 |
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Unfortunately, most of the guys above are either out of the sport or aren't on the board anymore.
Hopefully someone can get you a pic of an updated rig. |
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DowneyClan
Newbie Joined: 9/03/13 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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I will start a new thread. Thanks
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C. Smith
Admin Group Retired Joined: 8/30/04 Location: Antarctica Status: Offline Points: 6661443 |
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No need to start a new thread, I'm sure the newer folks will see this.
Also, I can't be sure that the pic Jeff posted earlier in the thread is exactly this....but I have a good hunch it might be... |
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AZTimm
Newbie Joined: 9/18/14 Location: Southwest USA Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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I can say this about standards, every games I've been to has different ones. Portland had some nice looking WOB standards but the Sheaf didn't look like it was that easy to set up. Phoenix has beastly steel standards that took every volunteer that was available to to set up. I heard that Las Vegas has some nifty ones. The best ones look to be made of aluminum. But I too am looking for the details on how to make some with no luck in getting exact details. Next games I am taking pictures of the Standards! Santa Fe next weekend, I hear they have fancy aluminum ones.
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KTDupuis
Senior Member Joined: 8/29/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 761 |
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How I did mine. They go to 36’-37’ Materials 4 QTY of 10-foot Aluminum pipes 1 ½” 3 QTY of 10-foot Aluminum pipes 1 ¼” 2 QTY of 10-foot Aluminum pipes 1” 1 QTY of 10-foot PVC Pipe 2 QTY of 3-foot iron pipe 1” 4 bolts 6 eye bolts Rope - 80’ length X 2 Rope - 50’ length X 6 Two rope cleats Tools, sports tape, etc, etc. Steps to build (one tower at a time) 1. Take one of the 1 1/4 “ aluminum poles. Cut a 3’ long section from it. You will use this piece as support to keep 2 of the 1 ½ poles together. 2. Slide the 3’ section you just cut into one of the 10’ long 1 ½” poles. Slide it in about half way in. (giggity) 3. Drill thru it about 6” down from the top of the 10’ section. Put a bolt thru it. a. NOTE: I recommend using a metal file to smooth out any rough/sharp edges at the drill hole. Otherwise you might fillet your finger (as I did) later on. b. NOTE2: When you break the towers down later, don’t remove this bolt. There is no need to ever remove this one. 4. Slide another one of the 10’ Aluminum poles (1 ½”) over the other half of the 3’ insert you just bolted on. 5. At this point you should have two 1 ½ poles end-to-end, with a 3’ section of 1 ¼” pipe as an internal support. 6. About 6” up from the join, drill thru it and put a bolt. 7. Take one of the 10’ sections of 1 ¼” pipe, and slide it 18” into the end of the 1 ½” pipe. 8. Drill thru and bolt it in place with an eye bolt. 9. Take one of the 10’ sections of 1” pipe, and slide it 18” into the end of the 1 ¼” pipe. 10. Drill thru and bolt it in place with an eye bolt. 11. About ¾“ from the top of the tower (the 1” pipe), drill a hole and put an eye bolt in it. Make sure this bolt is facing the other direction from the last two eye bolts you put on. 12. About 6’ from the bottom of the tower, attach a rope cleat (I used electrical tape to hold it there). At this point you should have an aluminum tower that is 37’ high. Bolted together, with two eye bolts used for guide wires, and one for the crossbar rope. Repeat steps 1-12 to build the other tower. Once you have both towers built, to erect them (giggity) a. Lay out your crossbar (the PVS pipe) on the ground where you want the setup to be. b. Drive one of the 3’ iron pipes just past the end of the crossbar. Drive it in about ½ way. (anchor) c. Drive the other 3’ iron pipe on the other side of the crossbar. Drive it in about ½ way. (anchor) d. With the towers lying on the ground: I. Run one of the 80’ sections of rope thru the eye bolt intended for the crossbar. Double it over on itself, tie the loose ends together. Attach it to the rope cleat (to keep it out of the way). II. Attach one 50’ Guide rope to the bottom most eye bolt. This rope usually is pulled straight out from the towers (keeps them from falling inward). III. Attach two 50’ guide ropes to the next highest eye bolt. These are the “crossing”ropes. IV. Do the same three steps for the other tower. e. Usually you can put up the towers with 3 or 4 people. (I have done it with 3, but 4 is safer). f. Walk the tower upright, with at least one person holding the guide ropes. g. With the tower sticking straight up in the air, lift the base of the tower up and over the iron pipe. h. With someone holding the tower, set the guide ropes so it will stand on its own. You will need something to anchor it to (I use 12”gavenized spikes. Six of them in total). i. Now erect the other tower. j. Untie the cleated ropes for the crossbar, and attach the crossbar to it. k. Attach a measuring tape to one (or both) ends of the crossbar. l. Adjust ropes for stability or safety. DISCLAIMER: Do this at your own risk. I take no responsibility for cut fingers, drilling thru your own feet, dropping towers on yourself, lightning strikes, etc. |
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"I have a right to my opinion, and my opinion is that you have no right to your opinion" - G. Carlin
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KTDupuis
Senior Member Joined: 8/29/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 761 |
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...and if you want more sturdy (and heavier) towers, you can always use slightly bigger diameter pipes at each level. (2", 1 1/2", and 1 1/4"). I have found the materials I use to be adequate for most games.
Although I might need to add 3' to mine with the sheaf heights I have been seeing this year.
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"I have a right to my opinion, and my opinion is that you have no right to your opinion" - G. Carlin
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AZTimm
Newbie Joined: 9/18/14 Location: Southwest USA Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Thanks!
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mike landrich
Senior Member Joined: 4/12/09 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 306 |
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Aluminum TUBE comes in those dimensions. Aluminum Pipe is different, as its measured inside diameter and outside diameter is not on even numbers and has a weld bead down the inside of the pipe. Also, make sure they'll fit together. There is a +/- 10% acceptable variance in the actual wall thickness vs the nominal (indicated) thickness, so 1.5" outside diameter (outside diameter is usually spot on) may not fit inside 2" OD, 1/4" wall thickness tube, even though it "should" fit after you do the math. If you buy in person, take calipers and buy the slightly thinner walled tube to guarantee fit and give some slop room for when the tube gets corrosion on it
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"Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level and win by experience"-Mark Twain
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KTDupuis
Senior Member Joined: 8/29/04 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 761 |
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Tube...pipe...potato, tomato, potatoe.
Thanks for the clarification. I went to Home Depot and just bought the stuff that I knew I could use. Made sure it would all slide in properly before I made cuts or drilled holes. |
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"I have a right to my opinion, and my opinion is that you have no right to your opinion" - G. Carlin
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mike landrich
Senior Member Joined: 4/12/09 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 306 |
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Your Home Depot has aluminum? I'm jealous. mine has black and galvanized steel pipe, rigid and emt conduits and that's it
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"Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level and win by experience"-Mark Twain
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getyoukilt
Groupie Joined: 8/28/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 142 |
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Has anyone ever tried using gutted swivel trailer jacks to raise and lower towers ? I saw a setup for an antenna mast that went 40' and could be erected by 1 person.
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" " - Harpo Marx
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C. Smith
Admin Group Retired Joined: 8/30/04 Location: Antarctica Status: Offline Points: 6661443 |
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I just can't picture how a trailer jack would be helpful when erecting telescoping tubes/pipes/tomatoes...can you explain or draw or link, cause I'm confused?
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getyoukilt
Groupie Joined: 8/28/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 142 |
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Jack may be the wrong term. The pivot up wheel used at the front of trailers. Remove the wheel and insert the pipe for the standard. Use the pivot and lock mounted a post. This would function as the tilt up base for the tower, not as a means of standing it. Like a tilt up flagpole.
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" " - Harpo Marx
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C. Smith
Admin Group Retired Joined: 8/30/04 Location: Antarctica Status: Offline Points: 6661443 |
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Yea, wrong term.
But yes, that's been done before. The MOASS made by Ancient Athletics were done this way, and to this day are the best standards I've ever seen. You just start to get into weight issues when you make bases like that.
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McSanta
Postaholic Joined: 4/12/05 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1595 |
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MOASS = Mother of All Sheaf Standards
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Mark McVey
"The work of science is to substitute facts for appearances and demonstrations for impressions." -John Ruskin |
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AlDargie
Postaholic Joined: 7/27/06 Location: York, Maine Status: Offline Points: 1784 |
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I read this in context with Craig's statement that you needed "moass" to move the thing into position.
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Dyin' ain't much of a living, boy. - Outlaw Josey Wales
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getyoukilt
Groupie Joined: 8/28/07 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 142 |
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The tilting assembly would be permanent. The towers could be slid out of the jack's tube and erected the old fashioned way should I need to set up elsewhere. I was thinking I might be able to set up at home with two people, where as there is always plenty of help should I carry them to a game.(eventually enough people show up......)
I was curious if such a setup was strong enough before I invested time and ( gulp) money into it. Thank you for the insight gentlemen. |
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" " - Harpo Marx
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