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How do I make this?

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wordsmyth1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11/07/05 at 10:51am
I need some suggestions on how to make a working high bar to use for sheaf and WOB training at home.  As it is we have a couple of pvc pipes kind of stuck in the ground with a knock off bar going across.  It's a pain in the butt to change the height and only goes up to about 11 feet.  I really need some ideas on making something more suitable and still not too expensive.  I've seen photos with what looks to be extension ladders with a bar coming off from it but i dont know how those work either.  How do you guys do this and where do I get materials? It's really going to help training when we get a crossbar that is stable and usable.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Brandt
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Wayne Hill View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wayne Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/07/05 at 11:30am
The extension ladder idea works out pretty well for a home setup, especially if you can't leave it set up all the time.  To support the ladder, you can use a couple of fence posts (e.g., steel T-posts or even the cheaper, formed sheet metal ones) pounded into the ground ladder-width apart.  You can tie the ladder to these by passing a rope through rungs on the lower part of the ladder.  Another pair of ropes through a rung near the top of the lower part of the ladder can be staked out to make it really stable.  Does this make sense?

Anyway, for the crossbar, I've used steel pipes with varying success.  If the ladder rungs are skinny (some are, some aren't), you can only get a 1/2" pipe through it, and that is frankly not strong enough.  A good bang with a 56 will bend it.  If the rungs are bigger, you can use a 3/4" pipe (a little over 1" OD), which is much more likely to stand up to abuse.

What has worked out surprisingly well is to use bamboo poles for the crossbar.  These can get pretty beat up, but still bounce back up.  When I first tried this, I figured a piece of bamboo would work a couple of days, long enough for me to go get a piece of pipe. It turns out that it lasts the better part of a season before I have to replace it, so I've stuck with it.

-Wayne
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/05 at 8:47pm
Just a thought  havent made it yet but have seen it with mike north.

I think that if you would take a  5 gallon bucket and fill 3/4 full with cement and take a  Maybe 3" pvc pipe taped at the bottom or caped. Cut it just long enough to  come just above the rim of the bucket let this harden in the cement, maybe drill a hole through so you could push a nail or pin through it.  Then take a 2 1/2 inch pvc pipe or what ever size  that would just slip inside the 3" and still be able to be pulled out ( if you wanted to make it stay at home than get as tall of a length as you want.) But I was thinking of making it portable so I would just keep adding pipes tat could slide inside one  another. But I would make sure that the bottom was 2" shorter than the nest and so on., dont want them to slide all the way in and get lost. On the last pipe I would drill through the pipe to slide a small dowell or one of those  little quarter inch poles or the poles from aan old tent ( fiber glass thing) through the whole. I then would go down the polls and drill them so I could stick a nail or pin through them just like  an old tv antina poll that telescopes up.  My first pole would olny ( this is the one that fits inside the 3" one)  be about 5 feet long. I would take this poll and drill holes every six inches for me I olny need about  six holes. I would then drill  one whole into pipe  number two about 1 foot from the bottom. Now I can get the pipes laid out to a minmum highth and a 3 foot highth  adjustment with six inch adjustments. So for me its a two foot  bucket pool, the next pool is 5 foot  with 3 foot adjustments so this one is fixed. Then I could add a nother  8 to ten footer  wanting a overlap of at least min of 1 foot so I go with a  10 footer . So I can have about a 14 foot standard that maxes out at 14 foot but can be adjusted in 6 inch increments  from 11 to 14 or ther about. Should be easy to male and transport.  Ill let you know

Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McSantoli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/29/05 at 1:23am
I can't see how the bucket of cement would be stable enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JWC III Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/29/05 at 3:19am
I saw a set of 30ft sheaf standards one time (made by Thom McCaughan in St. Louis) that were made with 15" tires filled with cement.....just like portable, home made volleyball net poles.  At first, I thought there was no way this could be stable, but once he set them up AND staked them to the ground, I was impressed.  Staking standards to the ground is key.  I happen to have a collection of anvils lying around (doesn't everybody) and I throw a couple of them on my bases, a hurricane can't pull them over.  Just some random thoughts on the matter.
Thom Van Vleck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Borges Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/29/05 at 8:17am

I took two 10' sections of 1" electrical conduit and pounded them into the ground about 2' (use a wooden block to protect the top from the pounding so that it is not damaged). Drill 1/4" holes about 1' from the top of each section and put a bolt through (secured with a nut on the other side). I then took two 10' sections of 3/4" electrical conduit and dropped them into the top. Instant 18' standards. If you drill holes near the top of the 3/4" sections and put eye bolts in you can thread a loop of rope through each side, tie a PVC crossbar to them, and you have an instant 18' high adjustable WOB/sheaf standard. To go higher simply repeat with 1/2" sections. Up to 18' mine is pretty stable even when it gets hit hard. If you were going a lot higher or if your soil is less stable then you might need to add guy wires (or ropes).

John Ross has a really neat setup in his yard. He set base sections in concrete. These sections are iron pipe and the whole thing is done a few inches below ground level. The pipe is threaded and he has caps that he puts on when he wants to cover it up (keeps the base pipes from filling with debris). When he wants to use it he clears away the woodchips, removes the caps, and drops in pipe standards (could be done a lot lighter with aluminum fence rails). This all sits on the edge of his patio where it transitions to an area of woodchips.

Cheers,

Carlos



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote G-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/13/05 at 7:00am
I just made a home standard it is one tower that has pre drilled holes every 6 inches. to change the hieght you just lean the tower forward and move the crossbar. it sound like a pain but is much faster than any other system i have seen becuse you don't have to re measue each time. In the picture it is at 12 ft with the second pipe it goes to 20. I think if you had 15 ft pipes you could go to 30 but that mite be pushing it.
http://myweb.cebridge.net/cghighlander/2005tundra/images/d cp_4003.jpg

Edited by G-man
http://cghighlander.blogspot.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wayne Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/13/05 at 8:03am
Hmm, that's kind of interesting.

BTW, who's in the picture?  There's something about that form that bothers me.

-Wayne
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terry Lawson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/13/05 at 10:45am

Excuse me for the hi-jack of the thread for a moment!!! 

But I was just looking at those pictures and "DAMN" I was bitching about throwing the caber in the rain at KC this year!!

http://myweb.cebridge.net/cghighlander/2005tundra/images/dcp _3996.jpg

I'm going to keep my mouth shut!!!!

Terry Lawson

PS I do like the WOB rig. I might have to do this instead of the one out of steel tubing.

 

“The hard stuff we do right away, the impossible stuff takes a little longer!”
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote G-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/14/05 at 4:28am
The guy in the picture is Ty philips he competes in strongman 700+ dead he has been doing some highland games for fun this year. ya something is wrong with his form he is pulling across his cest instead of straight up

http://myweb.cebridge.net/cghighlander/2005tundra/images/d cp_4003.jpg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wayne Hill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/14/05 at 10:50am
If he can make 13' that way, then he should be good for 15' or more with improved form.

-Wayne
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/14/05 at 6:06pm
As For the cement I think it would work. You are only using one side and the bar will move if it gets hit. But for a back yard John Rosses is the best
Paul
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wordsmyth1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1/10/06 at 2:24pm
Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions!  As to those snow throwers...man, I bitch when it's just cold and windy.  Not sure I could handle caber tossing in the snow!
Thanks again.  With all this advice I'm sure we can put something together.
MacGregor...despite them
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