Cheap and Easy WOB Standard

I had a couple of requests to post details about the WOB rig I showed in my TLOG, so here you go.  Thank you to Rob Meulenberg for the inspiration.

Parts List:

• 10' of 3" PVC
• 10' of 2.5" PVC
• 3" PVC end cap
• 2.5" PVC end cap
• Hi-visibility marking stick -- http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-48-in-Reflective-Rod-848638/202051800
• Bucket -- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homer-Bucket-5-gal-Orange-Bucket-05GLHD2/100087613
• Concrete -- I used this stuff because it was simple -- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-50-lb-Fast-Setting-Concrete-Mix-100450/100318521
• 4" 1/4" eye bolt
  
• PVC cement, silicone glue, Sharpie

Not including the bucket, cement, glue, and Sharpie (all of which I already had) I think spent about $40.  $29 of that was on the PVC, which was SCH40 conduit actually, because that is what the plumbing supply place across the highway had in 10' lengths.  It also happens to be sunlight resistant, so yeah.

Construction:

• Cut the two PVC pieces to desired length.  The length of the 2.5" piece will determine the minimum height of your standard.  I wanted an 8' opening height so I cut mine to 8'.  Cut the 3" piece 4" - 6" shorter.
• Glue an end cap on each piece.  I put them on the cut ends so the other ends were factory clean.
• Stand the 3" piece (cap down) in your bucket and pour in the dry cement.  Use whatever means you like to make sure it's straight up and down.  I clamped mine in a couple of pieces of wood that lay across the top of the bucket, but it doesn't have to be that complicated.  The cement will pretty much hold it in place by itself.
• Mix and set the cement.  If you got the stuff I included the link for, it's as simple as pouring in about 0.8 gallons of water, poking a stick down into the mix here and there and tapping on the sides of the bucket with a rubber mallet to get the water to absorb.  Let it cure overnight.
• Install your marker stick in the capped end of your 2.5" piece.  I drilled a hole through the cap and pipe inside about an inch above the bottom edge of the cap.  Then I glued the marker stick in place with some silicone.  I could have epoxied it just as easily, but I wanted to be able to yank the thing out and replace if it ever broke.
• Assemble it.  After everything is dry, lay the bucket assembly over and slide the 2.5" pipe into the 3" pipe.  You now have an inner tube and an outer tube.  If you stand it back up it will be a minimum height.
• Put in the height adjustments.  While it is lying down, run a tape measure from the bottom of the bucket to the marking stick.  Slide the inner tube up until you get to the height you want and draw a line around the inner tube with a Sharpie, using the top of the outer tube as a guide.  Keep making marks where you want adjustments.  Stop when you hit a maximum with about a foot of inner tube still inside the outer tube.
• Slide the inner tube back out and drill holes just above the marks you made.  Use the diameter of the eye bolt  you have as the hole size.
• Final assembly.  Re-assemble and put the eye bolt in the set of holes you want to hold it at the desired height.  It's really easy to adjust by leaning the whole thing over and setting it rather than climbing up on something to do it.

Minimum height:




Set at 10':




Bolt adjustment:


Throw higher.

Tom

Great Stuff Tom

Building mine this weekend.

Tom-  I lived in GA for 5 years, and your pic reminded me of hunting in fall:)

Guys   Instead of the PVC, there's a product called TELESPAR. Its the perforated square tube that is often used for traffic signs. Its sized so each size slides inside the next larger size. Get 2 10 or 12' lengths and you have a standard that is adjustable in 1" increments, using a simple lynch pin attachment.

BrittneyBoswell wrote: Hey, Mike, where can this be readily purchased?

And online prices are never correct. Pickup is always different: pay cash and its quite often substantially less